The pinnacle of masculine elegance since its appearance in the 1930s, the men’s tuxedo responds to historical and, as such, very specific social codes. And, even if it adapts perfectly to the evolution of mores, times, and trends in clothing, certain rules persist, whether it is to choose it, but also to wear it with class, or style. , and elegance. Whatever the occasion, the men’s suit is designed to sublimate and enhance the wearer. So how (good) to choose it, to avoid missteps? Here are 5 tips for choosing a man’s suit that is perfectly suited to his morphology and current social norms.
A fitted and perfectly fitted jacket
In men’s suits, the jacket is simply the most important piece of the outfit. It is also subject to a certain number of strict codes concerning the cut, or even the material.
Thus, at the level of the cut, the conventional men’s tuxedo jacket is necessarily fitted, without a slit at the lower back (some models, however, have one). It also offers either a shawl collar or a pointed collar. Contrary to what one might think, the notched collar that we find quite regularly does not fit into the established codes. In addition, your suit jacket must be perfectly adjusted to your build; that goes without saying since the objective of the outfit is obviously to show you off. To choose the jacket that exactly suits your proportions, check in particular that the shoulders match perfectly. As it concerns the length, it should not fall lower than the highest point of the buttocks. The sleeves, must both cover your arms, but also reveal a small piece of shirt (count half a centimeter).
For materials, if wool is customary for the outer part of the costume, the reverse must always be in silk (silk satin being the most used). The buttonhole is double or single, depending on preference. But anyway, the buttons must be lined with the same material and color as the one(s) used for the lapel.
A high-quality white shirt
If your tuxedo jacket must respect certain codes particularly rooted in tradition, the same goes for the shirt you choose with your suit. If one insists on scrupulously respecting the standards (black tie / white tie), no derogation is possible as regards the color: the suit shirt is white. And for purists or luxury weddings, it even has a pleated or quilted plastron on the front. This rule of the breastplate, however, tends to fade in favor of “smooth” shirts, more versatile, which are completely accepted in society. It is not allowed, however, to skimp on the quality of the materials used.
Regarding the wrists, they are musketeers, delicately adorned with cufflinks. It is also important that the sleeves of the shirt protrude about half a centimeter from the sleeve of the jacket. As for the collar, we choose either a broken collar, a turn-down collar, or an Italian (or semi-Italian) collar, the only three options currently accepted (and acceptable) for the tuxedo shirt.
Straight pants, no belt
As you can imagine, the choice of men’s suit pants is just as crucial as that of the jacket and shirt. Because he too is subject to precise and (relatively) strict codes. The first of them concerns his cut. The tuxedo pants are indeed straight, preferably high-waisted, but above all perfectly fitted to highlight your silhouette. So be sure to choose your size, because no belt is allowed. Optionally, it can accommodate buttons on the sides to attach a pair of suspenders.
To make sure the suit pants fit properly, check the pockets: they should fit perfectly. In terms of length, the bottom of the pants should fall, tapering slightly towards the shoe (without being slim). It should only form a single fold at the hem. You will know that your pants are neither too long nor too short.
A more flexible, yet harmonious color code
Originally, the only element to differentiate one costume from another was the color; black was then reserved for religious ceremonies, anthracite gray or navy blue for formal events, and classic gray for more informal outings, …. Today, even if it is advisable to remain sober in the choice of the color of one’s costume, these conventions are no longer applied in such a strict manner. It is therefore not uncommon to see suits in shades of brown, green, blue, or even beige, which are very popular for wedding suits. In the same way, the jacket and the pants can be mismatched, provided that the pants are made of the same material as the jacket, to keep a certain harmony in the outfit.
Regarding the patterns, you can let yourself be tempted by stripes or prints such as the tartan suit for example, provided that they remain very fine, discreet, and elegant.
Take care of the finishes
To properly wear the men’s suit, it is essential to pay particular attention to the accessories and finishes. Also, if the tie is rather reserved for professional circles, do not hesitate to dare the bow tie for a chic and elegant evening. By convention, the knot is traditionally attached to the lapel of the jacket; that is, it is better to turn to a silk or satin model, so as not to break the harmony created. When it comes to costumes, the goal is to show you off, not to draw attention to a specific point in the outfit.